can i blame the Thai military?

there were a few environmental issues [like 12 inches of snow in Denver] that dragged out the time it took to get to Thailand.  but there are some other things going on that travelers, tourists and anyone who flies in the area should know.

the FAA [United States Federal Aviation Authority] has down graded the safety level of Thai Airways for 'failure to meet minimum international standards' - this doesn't come as a surprise to anyone because it's a decision that is made after multiple warnings have been issued to the carrier that they are being 'red flagged'.

why did this happen?  i have very fond memories of my first trip on Thai Airways to Bangkok in 2003 where i flew first class and was treated like a princess.  Thai Airways is the major carrier in and out of Bangkok and is a state-controlled company that the military government targeted for reform after seizing control in May of 2014.  well, they've reformed it.  now they can't fly into the US.  

why do i care?  i like United Airlines.  i have a ton of miles on United and because of that they treat me well.  Thai Airlines has been part of the United partner alliance but they are pulling away from them because of the downgrade.  so basically my airline of choice has turned off the pipeline of flights to Asia. 

add that to the problems with other regional carriers like Air Asia and Malaysia Airlines and what was once an easy affordable region to fly around has now become a big roll of the dice.  i can only suggest you take a Luk Thep [ that's my next post]. 

Bangkok Airways which is the domestic carrier in Thailand is getting a special post because they deserve special recognition as the AIRLINE WITH THE WORST SERVICE. 

temple hopping in bangkok

temples in Thailand are like churches in Europe - one on every corner.  the biggest, most elaborate, with the tallest, longest, or most emerald seem to be in Bangkok.  it just takes a day or less to see the trinity of temples in Bangkok, unless you take a detour through Chinatown, which I did.  just the highlights, i skipped the Palace Compound because i did it years ago and the number of tourist buses outside made me dizzy.  i did go to Wat Pho and here's the proof in the form of the reclining Budha.  it's all gold so it is pretty cool.  the whole compound was pretty quiet and it was nice to wander around without  the tour groups.  they must have been through earlier in the day when it was cooler.  it is so hot and i'm drenched in sweat.

there are lots of fancy budhas here but more interesting is the conversation i have with a local Thai man who says he is pleased with the  military coup earlier this year and the subsequent installation (last week) of the new prime minister and council.  they expect elections in another year or two.  i didn't comment on how the rest of world frowns upon military coups and supports the results of democratic elections.... last time i was here they were burning tires in the street but that's going to have to wait until another post.

 i got a photo of the Wat Arun lit up at night from the water taxi the previous night when i was making my way ovver to the tourist ghetto a/k/a Khoa San Road.

i limp over to the Wat Arun which is pretty cool because it was decorated with porcelain discarded from Chinese ships who used it as ballast and it's monkey designs are the reward for climbing the very steep steps.  very steep steps, but totally worth it to explore the area and has great views of the city.

tourist ghetto

back in Bangkok i decide to stay in the tourist ghetto.  mainly because it's close to the temples i want to see and it's just exhausting running around Bangkok's transit systems.  the tourist ghetto is based around Khao San Road and has basically everything a traveler needs and the signs are in english.  every large or gateway city has one of these.  in Nepal it is the thamel.  it always feels like penance for some sin i haven't yet committed.  let's just call it a right of passage for travelers entering the country.

there are three levels of transport around Thailand.  the first, and least expensive, is shared taxis and the buses/trains.  the shared taxis are the songthaews which are pickup trucks with benches in the back along each side.  you flag these down, then tell the driver where you want to go.  if it's the direction he's going, he gives you a price and if you agree you hop in the back.  typically the cost is less than $1US.


the second level of travel is via a network of minivans that allow a traveler to skip the bus/train stations and cater directly to the tourist crowd on a budget.  the cost is usually 2X or 3X the cost of the public transport options but are air conditioned.  i remember from the last time i was in Thailand that once you get into the network of minivans/hotels it's hard to get out.

the third level of travel is reserved for those travelers who have booked a managed tour.  the travel buses are very nice.  i've been advised when using a private taxi it's better to flag down the old taxis because the newer taxis are on rental to drivers newly arrived from outside the city.  the idea is that the older taxi drivers know the city better and can get you where you are going more easily.

back to bangkok

i negotiate a fair taxi price to get back to the ferry which just goes to show that not all the taxi drivers on the island are trying to rip off tourists.  when i say taxi, it's a bit of a stretch .... in the past we called them songthaew but now everyone refers to them as taxi.... yeah, it's an open back pickup truck with some benches. goodbye Koh Samet with your freakish sculpture that greets tourists.....

the ferry ride is nice but the alternative speed boat service probably works out close to the same price.  i'd probably use the speed boat service if i did it again to avoid the surly taxi drivers plus it saves time because they will drop you directly at the beach you are staying.  the prow of the boat is a sacred spot where the spirits dwell so they are typically decorated, most often with fresh flower garlands that are sold by 
hawkers on the side of the road.

back at the 'dock' i'm waiting for the bus back to Bangkok and it feels like 100 degrees and 100 percent humidity.  a bus pulls up and for a moment there is a   burst of excitement but then the american couple waiting with me points out - that's way to nice to be our bus.  yes, we have bus envy and for a moment, sitting in the heat at the stinky, trash ridden ferry terminal i wonder why i travel the way i do.  then a group of chinese tourists all wearing the same shirt line up to get on the bus and i'm reminded why i travel independently. 

back to Bangkok we go on our just a little bit better than a chicken bus.  i hop the skytrain to the boat taxi and head over to the tourist ghetto where i previously scouted out a guesthouse.  it takes like an hour but only costs $2US and a taxi which would take about the same amount of time would be around $30US.  it is a pain is the a$$ to get around Bangkok.  and yeah, there is a road in Bangkok actually referred to as the tourist ghetto.

visa for Myanmar

yesterday i spent most of the day arranging for my visa for Myanmar where I plan to go at the end of September.  It was the usual cluster when getting a visa for a developing country.  i stood in 4 different lines but the crowd was a cheerful bunch and helped anyone who had questions about the application.  there were some runners who had stacks of passports and seemed to know each other so i'm guessing it's a daily thing for them.  lots of people interested in going to Myanmar.  the reason it took most of the day was because you could only submit your application between 9 - 12 and had to pick up between 3:30 - 4:30.  i wanted same day service so i could leave for the island in the morning and the Embassy wasn't convenient to anything else i wanted to do so i burned my time up in a coffee shop and getting a foot massage.  Ahhh, the Thai foot massage is so refreshing ... 

especially because on my way to the embassy i got a bit lost and ended up walking much further then i planned.  i put on my headphones and rocked the extra two miles because i needed the exercise anyway.

what, lost?  here's a sample of the road signage.  Bangkok is spread out, doesn't have an efficient public transport system and the roads are so congested the taxis move along at a snails pace.  reminds me of NYC at rush hour but it's like that all the time.

finally i found a sign that signaled the end of the trail.... and it was in english

around 3 i headed back to the embassy to queue up for the pick up.  the line started outside and i was standing next to the sign that said visas applications accepted between 9-12.  a girl in her 20s walked up read the sign and then said to everyone and no one in particular she had just walk for an hour to get there and needed to talk with someone from the embassy.  the guy in front of me politely explained she'd need to come back in the morning and I asked if she needed an application because i had been handed two in the first line i stood in (this was confusing to me because it wasn't clear if I needed to fill out the exact same document 2 times - I've been asked to do stranger things so I've learned to expect anything). she said again quite urgently that she had QUESTIONS and needed to speak to someone from the embassy.  she had the backpacker who hadn't showered for a week look about her and I thought she might have some extreme situation - like perhaps she was going to seek asylum  in Myanmar - but no, as she rambled on it turns out she had basic questions about what docs were needed.  i thought to myself, WTF? you spent an hour walking to the embassy but didn't take 2 minutes to Google 'visa requirements for Myanmar' first?  i hope i was never that annoying but I'm sure I've had my moments.

in the third queue when i paid the money and turned in the application/passport this is the receipt i was given. there isn't anything on here that contains my passport number or name!  i got the right passport back and i had a stamp in it so i left happy. the detailed information on http://twotravelaholics.com/2013/04/07/how-to-get-a-Myanmar visa-in-bangkok/ about getting a visa from the Myanmar embassy in Bangkok was spot on!

there is a new option that was added September 1 2014 and had i known about it i would have used it.  for a tourist visa [not business which is available upon arrival] they now accept applications online and process in about 10 days.  the cost is $50 US which is only a few dollars more than same day service in Bangkok which is now 1260 Baht [$39] two day service is 800 Baht and next day is still 1000 Baht.

after two days in Bangkok I'm ready to head down to one of the islands and sit on the beach for a few days.  i picked Koh Samet which is just a few hours southeast of Bangkok.  i've never been so that will be a new adventure.