elephanta island, off mumbai, india

i got up early to beat the tourist crowds to Elephanta Island and was surprised by how quiet it was. everywhere there has been talk of the tourists not coming this year because of the demonetization.  however, by the time i leave there is a healthy line waiting to get in.

Elephanta is one of the World Heritage Sites that doesn't disappoint.

getting out to the island is easy enough via a ferry which leaves from the Gateway to India.  there is a 45 minute ferry ride which is nice and since i'm early, it's pretty empty.  on the island you have to run the gauntlet of touts as you climb the 120 uneven steps to the top carefully avoiding eye contact which is the first buying signal from which it will be hard to disengage without making a purchase. still, i find the touts in India to be only mildly aggressive compared to places like southern Bali and Morocco or Egypt.

once you‘ve hit the top you can grab your ticket - it is one of those places where locals pay 10 cents and forieners are charged $6USD which is slightly annoying.  no one really knows the origin of the cave/shrine/temples so its hard to explain what they are. everyone seems to agree that it was dedicated to the female goddesses and that seems to make sense from the location away from mainland india and the reliefs that remain.  it contributes to my sense of the indian culture that women are kept separate, considered unclean and unequal.  to westerners like myself it's offensive that indian women during their monthly cycle are prohibited from places of worship or kitchens.  when choices are limited it contributes to the cycle of poverty and inequality that will continue to be a part of the culture here.

it was great to wander around feeling like i had the whole place to myself in a place where women were honored.  when i left the ferry back was also mostly empty.  

it was one of the few historical places i wanted to see on this trip and i am glad i made the effort.  

i had surfed around to find a good guide since i'd never even been to Mumbai before.  it ended up being more stressful to coordinate going with a guide and between uber and guide book available onsite for less than $1 i had a better time on my own.  the cost of a guide with ferry and entrance fees would have been over $200US so i was glad i had done it my way.