video of honduras

 

money, recrossing the border, navigation and rental car

$0.20 - twenty cents american

we ended up not changing any money as we were able to get around using our credit cards and american dollars.  i had filled the gas tank in guatemala so i wouldn't have to in Honduras and that worked out great.  we ended up with a few lempira notes as change for coffee in one shop [give them american dollars - they give you a really crappy exchange rate - you get change back in local money] 

driving back to the border the road had dried out enough in washed out places that traffic was moving quickly.  

we all had valid stamps for Guatemala in our passports and since we had not been stamped out [just stamped into Honduras] i drove past the immigration buildings and to the Guatemalan border gate.  i get challenged by someone in the car who was either just thinking out loud or wanted to go stand in more immigration lines.  i say let's see what happens and let's not make it more complicated than it needs to be.  it takes a minute for the guard to walk out of his shack and he lifts the gate and waves us through.  i shout a 'muchas gracias' and it was that easy.  i don't believe we did anything improper but remote border crossings are always unpredictable so someone else might have a different experience.  

the route we took back was not the same because of a navigation error.  i had fallen asleep in the back seat and when i woke up we were off route.  so, not a big deal but driving in remote areas does require both a skilled driver and some with navigation skills.  roads are poorly marked and google maps/waze was not 100% reliable.

when i return the rental car there is of course a final surprise, the contract is in US$ but when you return the car if you don't pay in US$ cash then they convert using a very bad exchange rate and charge your credit card at the much higher Guat quetzales rate.  this pissed me off because it's just a blantant rip off but i need the transaction to go on my cc for coverage reasons.  i told them i would dispute the added costs with my cc company - which i did because i had a contract in US$ and didn't pay the extra amount.

this was a great adventure and i had a wonderful time.  i hope that my travels take me back to Honduras.

violence in Honduras & Guatemala

this topic is toxic but this is my opinion  -  i try very hard not to make it worse than it is but to see it how it really is.

competition to be the most violent country in Central America is fierce.  the top contenders of the moment are El Salvador, Guatemala and Honduras.  Honduras has been in the news at the moment because of the violence and protests surrounding the recent elections.  in my time there i was cautious but did not see any evidence of violent crimes in the area i visited.

image from theindependent.co.uk

from my short time talking to people in Honduras there are bigger problems than the protests around the elections. it's the narcotics industry that is impacting the country.  due to flight logistics the major drug producing countries of south america need to land their planes in Honduras then move the drugs over land from there to the US.  hundreds of airstrips have popped up creating a new crop of narco warlords.

likewise, the same trends are visible in Guatemala as that money creeps north.  they aren't going to target expats or tourists but it is still possible to get caught in the crossfire.  

the narcotics industry and ultimately poverty are systemic problems that need to be addressed by sustainable economic solutions in developing countries.  

on security, i don't trust expats or other travelers because everyone's security experience, exposure and risk tolerance is different and just as important every culture has it's own nuances.

the real experts on the level of danger in a country are the insurance guys  [and the O&G sector]. they pay people to evaluate the social, political and economic stability of a country to make sure they aren't overexposed.  in my experience that list is far more valuable than what comes out of the state department in the US. 

asked recently by a Canadian about security in Guatemala this is what i said:

death, violent attacks and sexual assault - yes, it's possible but easy to minimize this risk by not going into the specific regions known to have high levels of related activities.  specific zones in Guat City and a few rural areas.

home property theft - yep.  expats are a big target here and the longer you live here the risk increases.  in my opinion, this is usually not random so it's just makes sense the longer you are here to more service providers will be in the house and it's just a matter of time.

street crime - more than most countries and being a gringo i know that i am a bigger target.  i minimize risk by carrying limited amounts of cash, don't wear expensive jewelry, expose my camera or phone on the street, carry technology [other than a phone] or walk alone after dark.  where i live it's easy and safe to use taxis/ubers after dark.  risk goes up during holidays.

in Guatemala i feel more safe here than in Africa, less safe than in Asia or the US.  still, the only place i have ever been robbed at gunpoint or had my home robbed is in the US.  

the scarlet macaw

years ago on a trip to Costa Rica we came across a beach with a flock of scarlet macaws and i was hooked.  i had never seen such a magnificent bird. they are big and noisy and messy and dominate the environment.  

like choosing a favorite child, this is secretly my favorite bird.  i haven't seen any in Guatemala since i arrived and suspect they have been harvested to the point of extinction for their beautiful plumage.

i was thrilled to hear they have been reintroduced to the valley of Copan and thriving in the wild.  at the Hacienda San Lucas they encourage them to visit with nesting boxes on the property.  

the macaws welcome you at the entrance to the Copan ruins which is appropriate as they figure prominently in the Mayan story.  when i spot the first streak of red i am so happy to see them again.  we were told they are the birds used on the 'goal posts' of the ball court and it follows that their feathers would also be sought after by the royals for their costumes.  the ancient Mayan mythology refers to the scarlet macaw as the representation of the sun which is easy to imagine given the vibrant color of the feathers and regal way that they rule the sky.

there is a moment as we walk through the ruins when a group of 20+ macaws fly overhead - as noisy and playful as i remember - and everyone stands rooted where they are to watch the display.  there is a bird 'sanctuary' close to Copan called Macaw Mountain and i am excited to visit it to see the work they are doing.  



i left macaw mountain with very mixed feelings.  i didn't get an understanding for the impact they were having.  being a lover of wild life it was heart breaking to see wild birds kept in small enclosures and breeding cages while elaborate walkways and bridges had been constructed for people.  the staff encouraged visitors to touch, handle and hold the birds for a photo op which i see as enabling people to interact with wildlife in an inappropriate way.

i felt the organization could be more responsible in education and presentation about these wild birds and it seemed more like a zoo and less like a sanctuary to me.  i didn't voice my thoughts to the group but they talked about how much more satisfying it was to see the birds in the wild at the ruins than in the cages. 

the copan ruins

the ruins in Copan are considered as important as those at Tikal because of the abundance of stone with Mayan writing that document the civilization at it's height between 300AD and 900AD.  it reminded me of visiting first the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia and then later seeing remnants of that same civilization 500 miles away in Vietnam. 


the more time i spend in the region, the more i am learning of the Mayan civilization and how advanced they were.  right after i arrived in Antigua i met an american woman who had been living in Guatemala for about 30 years.  she spent her career studing Mayan civilization.


whenever i get by for a glass of wine i learn a little bit more about the ancient Mayans.  she believes that Mayan medicine was so much more advanced that the arrival of the Spaniards set back medical advancement by about 500 years.  that's not something you are going to read about in the west.

we find the main site and a guide [arranged by the Hacienda] and as we walk to the gates we are welcomed by a very large group of wild macaws.  more on the macaws in the next post.  

this UNESCO site is well preserved and much of what has been uncovered remains in it's original position.  the stones tell the story of the dynastic rule in Copan [today we would call it political propaganda] and the rituals that help historians understand the belief system.  the stones show a special reverence for animals.  those that live both above ground and below ground were believed to travel between the living and the dead.  the dead dwelling being inside the earth.  those that fly above were revered as carriers of the sun and responsible for the sunrises and sunsets.

the ball court here and it's importance in the rituals is all new to me.  at some mesoamerican sites the ball courts were used for gaming.  no so here.  the leader of the winning team was sacrificed and this was considered an honor.  the sacrificed winner would decend into the dwelling of the dead to apease the gods and become a communicator with the rulers of the living.  

the temples, the writings, the construction all point to a very sophisticated civilization and as more secrets of this ancient world are uncovered many people theorize they were more advanced than other civilizations like the Egyptians.

here comes the preachy part .... coming from a culture that places little value on animals beyond a food source it's really hard to wrap your mind around how much the Mayans respected the animals, the earth and worked with the cycles of the year to live in harmony with the environment.  there are really important lessons to be learned in the telling of their story.  it is now recognized that the decline of the civilization was in part caused by over population and poor use of the land.  they could no longer produce enough food to sustain the large centers of population.  the land surrounding the Copan ruins had been completely deforested and it's impact is still present today as the old growth trees aren't present to protect the valley from mud slides.  

back to Copan, the ruins and town are not as commercialized as most UNESCO sites which is good to see but reflect how out of the way and less visited they are.  it's a minimum of six hours by road and most trips are longer than that.

i feel so blessed to be able to see these amazing ruins.  El Mirador is next on the amazing ruins list ... but it is only accessible via a multi day hike or via helicopter.  the first being scary to me because it's on horses through the jungle and the second option being a bit pricey.  

Hacienda San Lucas

 while most people head to Copan for the ruins the Hacienda San Lucas is a destination in itself.  because of the previously noted rains the road up to this place was a little tough in spots.  Jose [owner/manager] met us at the bottom on the hill and ended up taking our little rental car to the top for us - real valet service.  Jose introduces his wife, Norma the second half the hacienda management.





the property is bursting with color and well loved.  from the dog that will lift it's head to greet you - to the staff - everyone wears a smile and is helpful without being asked.

since we arrive just before sunset we delay going to our rooms and have a glass of wine while watching darkness descend over the valley.  Jose wanders out to chat with us about birds, the valley, ruins, etc. and then we have dinner on the beautiful candlelit patio.  a four course dinner is $26US.

the rooms are built to a western standard decorated in a Ralph Lauren style that is simple, functional and beautiful.  the plumbing all works like it should [this can't be taken for granted in some countries] and after a long shower [probably the best since i've been in central america] i crawl into the comfortable bed and sleep really well.  

in the morning i am up early to catch some of the morning birds and i'm not disappointed.  watching the valley and the hacienda waking up is magical.  there is a yoga shala that is as great as or better than any i've been on and i promise myself i will be back to this wonderful place again.  

unfortunately, we were only able to book in for one night because they have only eight rooms and so we check out and head out to meet a guide at the ruins.

this place rates my highest recommendation because typically to find this level of luxury and elegance in a remote area of a developing country the cost would be over 300US$ per night but the cost here is a more manageable $100US per night.

the place of tea and chocolate and vanilla

having navigated the border and washed out segment of the road to Copan, i get a lovely note from my Guatemalan phone provider - only $2 per minute for roaming in Honduras.  i only pay about $15 per month in Guatemala for my phone so this is not a welcomed note.  

it is just another 10 minutes to Copan.  my first stop is the tea and chocolate place  to meet up with the vanilla guy - David - that i was introduced to by the macadamian guy.  i get a tour of the vanilla experiment he is running and i'm not disappointed.  in fact, being a vanilla geek, i am shocked and amazed at the work he is doing.  vanilla is only native to mesoamerica so i was excited to see it in that environment.  instead of the hand pollination methods used elsewhere, he is cultivating the insects that naturally pollinate these flowers and getting very high yields.  i totally geek out about this amazing work he is doing [not just on vanilla but on other levels as well] in awe and humbled by how we all have such different ways to contribute to making our world a better place.

the tea and chocolate shop they run by his family is only open for a few hours in the afternoon but it is charming and rated very highly on trip advisor for a good reason.  the tea they give me is heavenly.

next we set off to find our accommodations.

off to Copan in Honduras

this is no short tale and will require multiple posts for the telling.  

there are currently two major sites that tell the story of the Mayan civilization.  the most well known is Tikal in the north of Guatemala which i previously visited on a different trip.  it was phenomenal and ignited my interest in the Mayan history.

the second site is Copan which is in Honduras just a few miles over the Guatemala border.  it's a bit of a trek but one i know i must do.  after much debate a few friends and i decide to rent a car and drive Antigua to Copan.  i'm as excited as a kid at christmas.  i got quite a bit of noise from both expats and locals who thought we were crazy to get a rental car and drive.  i hate when you tell someone about what you are going to do and they start projecting your fears onto you but i digress.  security and decision making is a different post.

there is a third, very exciting site emerging named El Mirador which still has limited access.

but there is a second reason i want to visit Copan.  there is a guy there growing vanilla.  when i was at the macadamian finca [Valhalla] Lorenzo had called him to introduce me because of my passion/fixation/experience with vanilla in Africa. 

the drive is fantastic... we avoid the traffic and an uncomfortable ride in a van and get to see a lot of the southern part of Guatemala just bursting with color ... until we hit the border.

i was expected by the vanilla guy so i was anxious to arrive but as we approach the Guatemala/Honduras border there is a very long [like 1 mile] line of semis [what we call 18 wheelers in the US].  after waiting a while and chatting up a bunch of miscellaneous people [did i mention none of us was fluent in spanish?] at the border we hear there is a washed out road on the the Honduras side causing delays.  what?  washed out roads in Honduras ... i expected it so i wasn't surprised.

being resourceful [like i think i am] i follow a tourist shuttle as it weaves in and around the semis to and over the border.  this is a good strategy and we avoid hours [or days] of delays.  

after driving on the wrong side of the road for a mile dodging oncoming traffic to the border, customs and immigration was for us no problem.  we parked, entered a building were 'fingerprinted',  stamped and paid our $3 in less than 10 minutes.  i say 'fingerprinted' because the machines don't work and i watched as the agents would eventually give up and stamp the passports and wave people through.  Honduras is part of a C4 coalition [guatemala, honduras, el salvador and nicaragua] which makes the borders less formal like in the EU.  except they all keep their own money - so we went in with american dollars to exchange not knowing exactly what to expect.  at the rental car agency we had paid $28 border fee for paperwork to cross the border with a car but no one wanted to see the documentation and we could have easily crossed the border without either a stamp or the car paperwork.  

turns out there was a spot on the Honduras side where where the road was washed out and they were using a massive tractor [like a front end loader] to pull the semis up the muddy hill.  i follow the tourist shuttle and make it up the muddy, rutted, washed out hill.  i don't recommend this for everyone.  i have years of experience driving off road in the mountains of Colorado in winter and driving in Africa.  that seems to be the right balance to be comfortable navigating in 3rd world countries. 

the biggest hassle was dealing with the car rental agency in Antigua [Budget] which was typical gringo BS but that is a whole different post.  

apple factory

within the first few days that I arrived i met a woman.  she is so delightful that I try to catch up with her once a week.  one day as we were getting a coffee her eyes light up and she she says ‘let’s go to La Torre’.

let me back up a bit.  besides the local market for fruits veggies and some foul smelling meat there has been only one ‘grocery’ store in Antigua since precolumbian time.  apparently the owner has enough local influence to keep all other stores out.  instead of caring for and cultivating this monopoly he has a store with poor quality products that seem to always be covered with a layer of dust.  so yuck. 

here’s the good news, there is a very nice, high quality chain called La Torre which is opening in the next village which is less than 5 minutes away.  for those of you in the US it’s a difference between shopping at a Whole Foods or at a 7-11 for dinner.  so, since i arrived the excitement has been at a fever pitch about the opening.  every week someone posts on the expat page they ‘think’ it is open.  i have learned that there is a lot of specutlating vs. reality on the expat page so i’ve been waiting for real photographic proof or a first hand account of someone who has been there.

so my friend says, let's go and i say yes.  well, as you can probably guess.  it wasn't open yet but we found something better.


on a side street is a small carpentry shop where an old man is carving apples and other fruits in a tiny dark storefront.  the work is beautiful and made the trek to Jocotenango a good adventure.

all things macadamanian - vahalla in guatemala

i hopped a chicken bus out to a finca [farm] where they grow macadamian nuts.  i'd heard a lot about this place.  VALHALLA .  mostly how good the pancakes were and how they had the most beautiful outhouse in all of Guatemala.  being somewhat well traveled i had to see this [el bano] but i was also interested in understanding the introduction of the macadamian trees as a sustainable economic and environmental solution for Guatemala.  

as you wander onto the property you are just in awe of the the care that has been taken to cultivate the farm.  it is a study of living with nature.

the Mac Giver

with a name like Valhalla i knew the owner would have a sense of humor and indeed meeting Lorenzo is a singular experience.  turns out he's the the guy who greets people as you enter the farm.  

i hardly know where to start.  he's been doing this for decades now and has been recognized on the global level of integrity in cultivating macadamian trees.  they have given hundreds of thousands of macadamian seedlings to indigenous communities to foster climate sustainability and address the serious lack of nutrition with the communities.  

he built a nut cracking machine from scratch and called it Mac Giver - it reminded so much of my dad i know my dad would appreciate the simplicity and elegance of such a solution to a common problem.   he also built a sorting machine that allows them to sort the nuts making sure that they are dried according to size.   all of this is practical for Guatamala and i was humbled by the work one couple has done.   

the sorter

three hours later filled with pancakes, vanilla/cacao/macadamian talk, lots of laughter, a tour, a facial and meeting his adorable wife i left feeling like i was a part of the family.  

and yes, the bathroom is probably the most beautiful in all of Guatemala.

volcanos

so, this happened .....

there are almost daily eruptions from Fuego - the volcano to the west of Antigua - usually it is just a small puff so waking up to this created quite a buzz.  it was the day after the super moon so i wondered if that affected it.