move over pope

there has been a very significant shift away from catholicism in Guatemala.  while previously it was the only religion the country is now split and 50% of those practicing religion are catholic - the 50% are called evangelical.

i have no idea what the evangelicals believe or don't believe.  i can say that there are missionaries all over Guatamala and i did overhear this conversation at a local shop in Antigua.  clearly, this youngish [20 something] guy and slightly older woman were missionaries i'm just not sure which flavor.

him:  someone asked me about the cross and i didn't know what to say
her:  we don't ever talk about the cross or crucifixion because they are symbols associated with catholicism.

ummm.  ok.  i didn't wait around to hear more.  

one day on an hour-long ride to Santa Teresita where there are hot springs we got to speculating about this shift away from catholicism.  urbanization and economic decline were early factors and but it was the catholic church's alignment with the guerrillas during the civil war that opened the flood gate of evangelicals.  from there it seems the catholic church wasn't 'tending it's flock' and that led to the massive exodus.  

more on the religious practices in Guatemala.

chruch crypts

One of the other practices the Spaniards brought with them is the burial of the wealthy and influential patrons under the flooring of the churches.  

The deceased were buried under a dirt floor inside the crypt with lime and eventually moved into an ossuary in the same crypt. Coffins are not common and it was very rare to have a tombstone. 

The cathedral in the main park has some of the few crypts visitors may visit including one under a chapel that is currently used by mayan spiritual guides for ceremonies. Under the main altar, the remains of the conqueror Pedro they Alvarado and Bishop Francisco Marroquin are believed to have been buried. The remains are excavated in 1943 And put in a box in the local courthouse.

A beautifully excavated crypt is below the Santo Domingo church and has an exquisite mural painting from 1636. 

built from cacao money

fun fact.  there are about 26 catholic churches in one square kilometer [half a mile] that is considered the city of Antigua.  this is the cathedral at the central park [don't call it the square or the center - people will say they don't know what you are talking about] -  only a portion of it is still used.  like many ruins in Antigua, massive portions of the structure are left where they landed during the earthquakes.  

the architect who designed one of the rebuilds of the cathedral is credited with the ability of the superstructure to withstand additional earthquakes.  it provides a spectacular view of the sky on a clear day.

so, what does this have to do with cacao? one of the crops highly valued by the spaniards was cacao from which chocolate is made. much of present day guatemala was planted with cacao that was exported to spain. it is the cacao trade that funded the origninal cathedral. 

havana, cuba

Growing up in Florida, just 90 miles from Cuba, I had a fascination about Cuba that is finally satisfied. I was due for a visa run so I talk my brother, sister and another friend into a trip. Here's a snapshot of the craziness that is Cuba. 

true devotion

there is a rich and vibrant history behind the processions during lent.  the reasons for these processions are in line with the catholic themes of introspection, devotion and penance.  what the processions have become are quite a distortion of those original concepts.  

participation today is based purely on economics.  participants carry the floats for a set distance [about a 1/2 mile].  the cost to participate is based on where during the route you carry [higher visibility areas cost more] and where on the float you stationed.

devotional is not a word i would use to describe this ritual.  the participants are on average as devotional as a two year old in church.  introspection? not when you can't put your cell phone down for your 20 minute shift.  penance?  yep, walking in the hot sun carrying a float that weighs up to 700 pounds is brutal.  

makes you wonder what would jesus say?

angels

then a saint

mayan + catholic practies in Guatemala

when the conquistadors arrived and introduced catholicism there was resistance by the mayans.  the spanish built over the existing religious sites and did other crappy things which are pretty standard 'art of war' practices.  and the mayan did adopt catholicism.  they also kept their old mayan practices as well and often you see the practices side by side.  these colored candles have a lot of significance for the mayan and there are separate altars just outside the entrance of the catholic churches where it is acceptable for the mayan catholics to light their candles.  they just can't go inside the church where only traditionally white candles are used.  

red - love, clarification and represents the east.  black - cuts negative energy and represents the west.  white - purification of the mind and represents the north.  yellow - the energy of life and represents the south.  green - hope.  light blue - fortune.  purple - removes illness.  pink - fixes love

there are multiple combinations that enhance specific intentions, like mixing the white and blues will give you spiritual powers like intuition and vision.  more here.

first the romans

day processions